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What’s fun & interesting in the Blue Ridge Mountains & also local real estate market conditions

Moses Cone — Glory to the Left, Grandeur to the Right — The Fire Tower Trail

September 11th, 2008 by Helen

In “A Twist in the Road” I presented the concept that Mr. Cone designed his carriage trails by creating exclamation marks at what he wanted us to see.  I didn’t discuss the nature of the trail to the Fire Tower, the topic of this article. 

Several of Mr. Cone’s trails appear designed to awaken us to grandeur.  The Rich Mountain Trail [future subject] and the Fire Tower trail are two of those.  Picture this:  you’re one of Mr. Cone’s guests.  The year is @ 1900, summer, long hours of daylight.  You’re a friend from Greensboro, a business associate from Charlotte, a political associate from Raleigh. You traveled by train to Lenoir.  An ox and cart hauled you from Lenoir up a mud/dirt/gravel road to Flat Top Manor.

Flat Top Manor, Moses Cone Park, Blue Ridge Parkway

You arrived travel weary late in the day, ate, and fell into a deep sleep induced by weariness and by the magic of cool, clear, high elevation mountain air.   Mr. Cone has planned an early morning surprise for you, something to take you mentally and physically away from the hussle-bussle everyday life of flatlands in the city.  Arising early, he hurries you into a carriage drawn by fast-trotting horses.  You’ll climb aboard here:

climb-into-carriage.jpg      

You don’t know the lay of the land but the carriage carries you away from the Manor House toward Flat Top Tower.

You pass several of the [outlying] Manor buildings  The servants quarters [current, not the original location] and gardens:

Flat Top Manor, Blue Ridge Parkway, Moses Cone Park, Servants Quarters.

and the Carriage Barn:Flat Top Manor, Moses Cone Park, Blue Ridge Parkway, Carriage Barn

Today you’ll head under the Parkway Road but in 1900 there was no Parkway so image this trail without the motor road.  You’re heading uphill and suddenly to your left is a magnificent scene – Grandfather, Sugar [minus the Citadel], Beech:

View of Grandfather and more, Blue Ridge Parkway, Moses Cone Park, Fire Tower Trail

That grabs your drowsy attention but a moment later it’s gone and you’re in woods, a forest of tall trees and rhodos.  As the trail turns right, then left, then right again, you’re drifting mentally away. After all, it’s woods; something you already know.  Then bright daylight and open fields, pleasant and edged with forest.  A view off to your right – distant, distant, layers of mountains, what the pioneers repeatedly referred to as ‘oceans of mountains.’  Meaning, it reminded them of ocean waves.  Mr. Cone might interrupt your thoughts, pointing out that he’s chosen his gravesite to the left.  It’s a serene spot looking out to the endless east, the perpetual sunrise over mountain ridges.

 Moses Cone Park, Blue Ridge Parkway, Cone Grave

 You’re looking ahead to the lovely but somewhat unremarkable pasture to your left and right:

 Moses Cone Park, Blue Ridge Parkway, Cone Grave pasture

Perhaps your attention is riveted on mountain ridges straight ahead  when the horses slow to maneuver one of those twists, one of Mr. Cone’s switchbacks.  When the horses pull around the curve, there it is again – Grandfather, Sugar, Beech, glorious high mountain ridges.

Twist in Carriage Trail Showng Grandfather, Blue Ridge Parkway, Moses Cone Park 

Back in forest, the carriage takes you on gentle curves to the left, the right, and then the slowing down.  And again you encounter Grandfather/Sugar/Beech [now obscured by rhodos and trees].  A moment later, the eastern vista – the twist in the road already described – meets your eyes.

Eastern View from Fire Tower Trail, Blue Ridge Parkway, Moses Cone Park

A few curves later, and it’s Grandtather/Sugar/Beech.  A moment later and it’s the eastern vista.  First one, then the other, then the first, on and on.

Mr. Cone laid out this trail to assail your spirit with repeated encounters alternating between the glorious uplifted Grandfather high ridges and the distant layering of eastern mountain ridges.  See how this works out via the trail map:

Blue Ridge Parkway, Moses Cone Park, trail map for Fire Tower Trail
If Mr. Cone took you out early enough, the Grandfather ridges are dark initially, lightening, and changing color with each appearance.  With the eastern vistas, each encounter lightens with sunrise.

Perhaps he’s timed the outing for the most magnificent sunrise of all.  You climb the courses of steps up the Fire Tower:

f5ret6wer.jpg

At the highest point Mr. Cone has arranged for you to watch the sun climb above the eastern ridges, throwing low long shadows on Grandfather/Beech/Sugar.  The view from the Fire Tower is exquisitely dramatic.  It also gives the lay of the land – from Deep Gap through Blowing Rock, the Grandfather window, Sugar, Beech, Seven Devils, Castle Rock, Howard’s Knob and Snake Mountain.  The whole shebang.

[I have a marveous panorama of this view but haven't figured out how to load a virtual tour to a blog.  Any help would be MOST welcome!!  It's too wide to show anything in this space.]

When you walk the trail today, you’ll need to envision many of these vistas in your imagination. Many are obscured today by rhodos and other vegetation. 

b36c2ed-v5sta.jpg
A different vista, picture taken during the winter, in which you can see past the vegetation to know what lies beyond:
Blue Ridge Parkway, Moses Cone Park, seeing through in winter to vista

Remember, walking is slow compared to fast-trotting horses, so also imagine how different it would be to experience the alternating vistas if they came at you quickly. 

September, 2008

Adapted from LR, an unpublished manuscript by Helen Phillips copyright 2008

 

Posted in Hiking Trails, Moses Cone, Stupendous!! Remarkable!! Outstanding!! Marvelous!!, What's Fun & Interesting in the NC Mountains | No Comments »

Sept 2008 Calendar Birch and Aspen in Colorado

September 3rd, 2008 by Helen

Birch and Aspen Rocky Mountain National Park Colorado
Fall in the Rockies — how splendid.  I took tons of pictures and virtually every one turned out wonderful.  It’s hard even for an amateur like me to take a bad picture with such marvelous scenes.  I happened to be there last Fall when the aspens were at their peak.  In this picture, I especially like the play of light and shadow on the birch tree trunks.  Rocky Mountain National Park, Estes Park, Colorado

 

 

 

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Aug 2008 Calendar Butterflies on Blooming Thistle

September 3rd, 2008 by Helen

Butterflies pollinating thistles in Bloom Blue Ridge Parkway Cone Park
Such delightful days when the various pollinators find our abundant wildflowers.  These thistle grow in Cone Park near Mr. Cone’s grave.  Blue Ridge Parkway mp 294

 

 

 

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July 2008 Calendar Field of Buttercups

September 3rd, 2008 by Helen

 july-2008.jpg
Looking at buttercups, to me, is like looking at the sun — such shiny deep yellow brilliance.  An entire field is glorious.  These are located on the dam at Trout Lake.  And shortly after they bloom, the Park Service mows the field. So, catch them late Spring.

 

 

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June 2008 Calendar Just Blooming Rhodo

September 3rd, 2008 by Helen

june-2008.jpg
Rosebay rhodos are beautiful when they bloom en masse.  But, the individual blossoms are also gorgeous.  And they take so many forms as they are just coming into blossom.  I love the shades of pink, the darker pink buds in contrast to the fully blooming flowers, some of which are such a pale pink that they look white.  This bloom was on the Rich Mountain Trail above Trout Lake, Blue Ridge Parkway, mp 295.

 

 

 

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